Whenever the word ‘Kashmir’ struck in mind, we always call it ‘paradise on earth’ or ‘Switzerland of India’. We are nearly right but not completely. There exists two Kashmir one is for inhabitants of Kashmir and the other is for Tourists. For tourists, Kashmir is beautiful snow peaked mountains, frothy rivers, lush landscapes, Dal lake Shikaras & Houseboats, Lakes, Crocheted carpets, apples orchards and beautiful flowers, old Bollywood movies scenes featuring Rajesh Khanna, Shammi Kapoor along with heroines in traditional Kashmiri dresses. But for Kashmiris, Kashmir is almost hell. Indian armed force’s hegemony coupled with the brutal militancy has crushed the inhabitants of Kashmir in between. Last two decades have degraded its image in eyes of tourists, tourists started finding alternate destinations. This deviation of tourist interest further worsened the life of Kashmiris destroying their livelihood. Heavy losses were suffered regarding human casualties as well as Handicrafts Industry. But situation has improved in last 7-8 years; militancy is at all time low. We expect that currently Kashmir is at silence but some consider this silence is just a lull. Some People have different views about Kashmir oblivious of the current circumstances.
A short visit in the Valley revealed a different story against my anticipation. People are neither satisfied nor they accept the so-called democratic regime at the gunpoint of the Indian armed forces. They are expressing their ire in different agitational forms and on some occasions with their own initiative the people are taking struggle path without any call given by any organization in the valley.
In August 2009, I visited Kashmir valley for first time. I told my parents that we are going on a trip to Vaishno Devi Shrine, Patnitop and some adjoining tourist spots. Considering about terrorism in Kashmir, Parents would have never approved of visiting Kashmir valley. I was accompanied by my two friends. We reached Jammu after a 12- hour rail journey. We faced many ordeals during our brunch in Jammu and then our 9 hour long journey to Srinagar started on a TATA Winger. Serpentine Jammu-Srinagar highway along with breathtaking beautiful sceneries made our Journey really awesome and always kept us away from slumbers. We accompanied two kashmiri students whose declaration of being Anti Indian stunned us and raised a surge of fear and suspicion in our minds for kashmiri people. While we were nearly mid-way, dangerous Pir Panjal Pass, rugged roads, rain along with dusk also showed their presence. Famous Jawahar Tunnel, nearly 2.75 Kilometers long, excited us all and driver along with fellow Kashmiri students said “welcome in Kashmir”. Rain made weather more coldly and forced us to wear warm clothes. Then at nearly 11.00 PM, we reached deserted roads of Srinagar and driver took us to Hotel Kohinoor. Hotel owner resembled Yasin Malik, I was eager to ask but refrained fearing another Anti-Indian reaction. Then along with driver, we went to a North-Indian restaurant. Hot coffee after dinner in this cold weather gave us a nearly world-beating satisfaction. We all came and immediately surrendered to sleep.
HEAVENLY VIEW OF DAL LAKE IN NIGHT
Next morning, when we came out of our hotel, watching some locals fight ferociously further terrorized us. After moving some distance, we were highly mistaken in interpreting Mosque flag as Pakistani flag and our terror was at its peak. We Declared Kashmiris as pro-Pakistani. At Lock gate, only few Kashmiris in pheran(traditional Kashmiri dress up to knee length) but no tourists were visible. All the shops were closed. Then a Kashmiri boatman approached us and we booked a Shikara in Dal Lake. We started cursing people for the pathetic condition of Dal Lake. World famous House Boats lined in a row rushed an adrenaline flow in our body. Our boatman, a convivial man in his 50s, started telling about kashmiri people and diminished our fears regarding Kashmir. Some boatsman were selling vegetables, kaesar & other herbs, precious stones & Jewellery items in their boats. Different places came like Nehru park, motor bike point, golden area, kabutar-khana(ancestral property of Dr. Karan Singh, son of last ruler of kashmir, Maharaja Hari Singh), local market, floating land, and few others.Later in the day, we visited famous gardens of Srinagar, Chasmeshahi. After dusk we again joined Shikara ride.
PROTESTS ARE NOW A PART OF DAILY LIFE…………………
Next morning, newspapers headlined complete shutdown observed in response to Hurriyat call, main reason being the Indian PM Dr. Man Mohan Singh declaring Separatists as irrelevant in Independence Day speech. Also 15th August, 26th January and 27th October (Raja Hari Singh signed accession to India) are declared as black days and complete shutdown is observed. In next few days we visited Gulmarg, Pahalgam, Aru.
On our scheduled last day in Srinagar, after dinner we sat by Dal lake side, and accidentally met two locals. One was Tariq, a lean & sober man in his mid 20s, selling wooden handicrafts items made of Walnut. Other was Raja, a short & athletic man in his late 20s, selling crocheted clothes. They were very nice, decent, friendly and hospitable to us. They told us about the real Kashmir, its current circumstances, pro-independence stand, protests, strikes, wrong image of Kashmir is projected by outside media, ban on local media, fearful militancy days, crackdowns, torture by armed forces, custodial killings and rapes. But they accepted situation has significantly improved after 2005. Meanwhile Tariq introduced us to his father. Raja enquired about places which we visited, and not finding Hazratbal Shrine and Sheikh Makhdoom Sahib Shrine in our list made them disappointed. They requested us to delay our return journey by one hour and they will show us these places in their car. After this hot, intriguing and memorable interaction that lasted nearly two hours, we exchanged our numbers and bid good-bye. Before felling prey to sleep, I was engrossed in real Kashmir.
Makhdoom Sahib Shrine & Hazratbal Shrine
Next morning, we called Tariq, and within 20 minutes, he was in our room. After checking-out our room, we met Raja along with his car. First we moved towards Makhdoom Sahib Shrine, mid-way a woman came in front of car and argued with Raja to take food for Pigeons. We took some food for pigeons. After parking our car, a huge entry point with nearly 80-90 stairs welcomed us. When Raja told us that this is Shrine, taking our footwear in hands, we started climbing stairs. We offered food to Hundreds of pigeons who waited for their food and then moved toward mausoleum of Sheikh Abu Makhdoom Hamza Sahib, we offered our prayers but Raja and Tariq didn’t enter mausoleum arguing that they have immense respect for this immaculate place and they have not taken a bath today. A woman was crying and offering her prayers revolving around the main mausoleum room. Women are not allowed to visit mausoleums shrines. A couple, possibly in their 20s, stared towards with a suspicious gesture when I told Raja that we are Hindus and we don`t know how to offer our prayers. He replied God is one; offer your prayers as you do in a temple.
(starting from left Tariq , Raja, Rakesh and Me)
While returning, from the side windows, Tariq showed us Jamia Masjid, and a near by ground where protest are observed mainly on Fridays and Sundays, a Gurdwara, and finally militarized Mughal fort at Hari Parbat. After viewing Srinagar city, from a view-point outside Makhdoom Sahib Premises, we moved to Hazratbal Shrine. It was on the side of Dal Lake, few school-girls seating on banks of Dal lake surprised us with a intriguing gesture on their face. Tariq told us about a holy relic in form of one hair from the beard of Prophet Mohammed (peace be up on him) and also about the incident of 1964 when relic was stolen and mysterious return after few days. A story exists regarding the thief that a powerful elite stole this relic to show to his mother who was very ill. Mass protests were observed and it was nearly impossible to calm people. People sighed relief only after the relic returned and its genuineness was approved. When we went inside, again Tariq and Raja didn’t enter reasoning same, we saw a huge hall where very few people were seating and few offering Namaz. A sense of closeness to god was definitely in air. But we couldn’t spot that relic. Later Tariq told us that relic is displayed only two days in a year.
HAZRATBAL SHRINE IN SRINAGAR
To Raja`s home
Then we moved toward Harwan, Raja and Tariq started smoking but making sure no one spots them, reasoning that they are not fasting today in this holy month of Ramadan but they have to respect the sentiments of others who are fasting. Inside Harwan gardens, we could find only a family picnicking under the huge maple trees. I didn’t like harwan gardens coz gardens can be seen any where. Then we came on a tea stall and enjoyed tea along with snacks. With some bit of discussions, they convinced us to stay in their home for one night. Then we moved to their house, it was in outskirts of Srinagar City at a place named Ahmednagar. When they took a turn from main road to a narrow way, different negative thoughts struck in mind and I remembered how some people in Delhi kidnapped a foreigner after initial friendliness. I later regretted of even thinking this way and suspecting those nice and hospitable human beings, but you can’t have a control on a human mind. We were warmly welcomed by Raja’s younger brother, Zahid and his mother. We were presented traditional Noon Chai (Namkeen tea) along with some biscuits. I confess its taste was weird and malai further added to weirdness. I gulped whole cup of tea to honor their hospitality.
( from left Amit, Raja`s mother, Raja`s wifealong with her son nauman, Raja, Rakesh, Zahid & me)
ManasBal Lake
After some rest, we started our journey to Manasbal Lake. Most of the way, golden shades of paddy fields soothed our eyes. At many occasions, we couldn’t see speed breakers due to the shadow of Maple trees. Tariq enhanced our knowledge telling that Maple trees are found in Kashmir, Australia, Canada, and very few places others. And in fall season of the year, fallen chinar leaves looks like fire. On reaching Manasbal, we were dumbstruck to see a huge lake with some Shikaras and sun bifurcating the lake throughout. Manasbal Lake is definitely more beautiful, more close to nature as compared to Dal Lake. One can put thousand other desires at stake to feel the cool breeze, divine & immaculate beauty and tranquility of Manasbal Lake, sound generated by oar displacing water can sound symphonious in its serenity. But this whole cool breeze, divine beauty and tranquility concept became haunting when boatman told us its depth is 1300 meters. We wanted to end this journey very quickly. After some rigorous mental torture we reached other shore. It was an orchard of walnuts. Tariq gave us many walnuts by hitting his sandals on walnut tree and collect the fallen walnuts and told us that in Kashmiri walnut is called doon. At that time we all friends were in an altercating discuss “is it safe to stay at night in their home”. I was adamant in yes and one was in no, so the third one was to decide. I convinced all with lots of efforts. So it was decided we have to stay. In all this time, Tariq and Raja along with boatman waited for us to come. On our way back, we were comparatively less frightened. Lake started to swallow sun at horizon, a reddish streak parted lake from horizon to our boat. It was the best sunset I have ever seen. When we reached the shore, I was still lost in impeccable view of sunset. We reached to our car, but I was not in the car rather I was still seating in Shikara and enjoying heavenly view of sunset.
MANAS BAL LAKE – SEA OF TRANQUILITY
2nd Visit in Kashmir
On 15thSeptember, we were having lunch in our hostel mess. My friends Venus, Rohit, Gourav said We all were in last semester so my friends said why not go for a trip somewhere, first we decided Chandigarh then Amritsar then vaishno devi, then finally decided for Kashmir. I was the main element in convincing all other to visit Kashmir, as I have already visited Kashmir and everyone was jealous of the fun and respect I had there, and the hospitality of the Kashmiri people, and also about the actual situation of the Kashmir conflict. I told them about the views of people, they believe govt is distinguishing between them and people of Jammu. Also they want a separate country for them they are fed up of being crushed between the personal conflicts of India and Pakistan. Also the violent situation which is prevailing here is also the result of army not militants alone. Also the military is spreading violence here so that they can show their presence here and all international countries will think yea the deployment of forces is essential in kashmir because of the prevailing violence. Also the some secret agencies of other states such as Uttranchal and Himachal Pradesh is contributing in ruining peace in kashmir so that they can divert the traffic of tourists in their states and can ruin the suffering tourism industry of kashmir.
on 16th we reached Jammu in morning and at night we were dropped at the TRC, from there we walked till a J&K Bank ATM, we took some money. Then we headed toward the Lock Gate , after some walking we were able to get the first glimpse of the Dal lake. Some people approached us for hotel room services but we denied then replying we are going into the house of one of my relatives.we started walking on the Boulevard Road stretching alongside Dal lake.
MISERY OF DAL LAKE
My friends complained about the misery of Dal lake and telling me this dal lake is a complete contrast to what they have expected then I replied that there is no doubt abt the misery of dal lake but still lake is a very beautiful place. Then they saw a boatman wearing a pheron(told by me) and a skullcap, was on a boat and they were smitten by the the melodious sound of oar displacing water in the silent surroundings. Then I met the same oarsman whose shikara we booked on my last visit. It was a thrilling moment to again be at the same place then we were heading forward to reach hotel Heemal (Later I was reading a book named curfewed night by Bashrat Peer which game me knowledge that heemal was the name of a princess of kashmir). My friends were astonished to see the house boats in Dal lake. Then I told them about how the trend of house boats came in Srinagar.(Maharaja Hari Singh was suspecting some outsiders may act as British spy so he denied outsiders to built houses there as a result houseboats came in existence ) also about the hard work & time duration (1to 1.5 yrs) and cost (1 to 1.5 crores) it takes to build a house boat. I also made them aware about the intricate artistic handwork done inside the house boats.
The view of dal lake was mesmerizing and adrenaline rushed through them. After walking 5-10 minutes, I spotted Tariq first and then raja, we embraced each other oh men we were so glad to meet each other again then I introduced my friends with Tariq & Raja & some other people. Then came Tariq`s father and I recognized him and I greeted him. I was about to bow down and touch his feet but recalled that in Islam one is allowed to bow down only in front of Allah. Cool smooth breeze was blowing that added freshness in the surroundings. In front of us, there was a restaurant named Punjabi Rasoi, where we used to dinner every night. And then we used to sit by the side of Dal Lake and gossip. I was getting the reminiscences of the last time when we met tariq and raja at the same place, they told every bit to us about the real kashmir, a kashmir far away from tourists. Then we talked nearly for an hour. Raja then arranged us an auto for us to reach home coz he will be late in coming home.
Then we all five along with our luggage adjusted in the auto. Then we took right from the Lock Gate and then I told my friends about the hotel Kohinoor where we rented a room during my last visit (which was nearly 20 days ago). Then I told about an army camp which was used as for interrogation some yrs before. Then we entered the downtown areas of Srinagar. There were completely no signs of life on roads except at some places where you can find some boys sitting. Every shop was closed due to the Ramzan days. Then we walked past by Shrine Dastgeer sahib then Jamia masjid and then Maqdoom Sahib, it was a very nostalgic moment to visit all these places again and especially in the desertness around these place against the scores of people in the dead of the day when I visited these places. Then we moved through the alamgiri bazaar region, then through shoura before moving on to the “90 foot” road. Then within 10 minutes we were in raja`s house where we were warmly welcomed by Zahid, raja`s brother and his cousin Fahim.
Then we all sat in drawing room. Then came raja`s father and mother, we all greeted them. They couldn’t understand Hindi. We just said Asaelam walekum , they replied walikum salaam. But fahim and zahid came to our rescue by interpreting to each other. Then came raja`s wife along with Nauman (her 6 months old son) ,we also greeted her. She asked about our journey and well being of our family. Then we gave her the sweets we brought for them. Then we all washed our hands and face. After that we were given the noon chai, traditional namkeen tea. I narrated my ordeals when I tasted namkeen tea first time. It contained malai and malai is a complete no-no for me but still I gulped every bit of that to honor their hospitality. We all talked for half an hour about what I told about them to my family. They teased me by asking haven’t you told your mother that you were kidnapped by the militants. Didn`t your Aaj tak showed that there has been a blast in Lal chowk ? Raja`s parents were also enjoying the talk because fahim and zahid were continuously interpreting to them. I said “triyesh”, everybody laughed except my friends, so they enquired about it and I told that water in kashmiri language is called triyesh. Then bhabhiji brought water for all. Nauman, in arms of his grandfather, was lost in his own world oblivious to what is all going on. After that came the time for dinner, we were all sitting in a line, zahid laid a cloth in front of us, then bhabhiji helped us washing our hands in a bowl, after that a plate of rice for each came along with egg curry. we all ate except rohit as he is a complete vegetarian so they brought tomato curry and dal for him. After we had dinner then we all again discussed about the real kashmir, what`s all happening. My friends were really engrossed in the stuff after all it was the kashmir they can never see on the TV, nor in the newspaper. We all talked till 2.00 A.M in the morning before finally coming in the clutches of sleep.
APPLE ORCHARDS
In morning we all make our self ready to visit the apple orchards in front of zahid`s house. We all had kashmiri rotis and noon chai in the breakfast. Contrary to my first experience, I liked tea this time. The moment my friends came out, they were dumbstruck by the astonishing view then we moved forward to visit the orchards. We ate kashmiri shehtoot(mulberry). Contrary to mulberry trees in our areas, here they were small like bushes. A woman was working there, zahid replied something to her in kashmiri. After crossing many barbed wires we reached into apple orchards. A man warned us to touch the apples coz medicine is being applied to them. All the trees were neatly planted in rows. Nearly every tree in the orchard was full of apples, in middle of orchard we saw a tent and some men standing. Zahid greeted an old man. He told us that he is Haji ji , the owner of the orchard. We all greeted him. He showed many type of apples and gave information about the apple trees.
He was very excited by our presence and he clicked many photographs with different poses. Then after moving further we saw under a huge tent thousands of apple were lying, it was really a marvelous and fantastic experience. Then a young man advised us not to touch them as they still are not completely ripened. Haji ji also told many kind of facts about apple farming. He told us that each year 5-10 old trees are removed and in their place new trees are planted and for an apple tree, it takes nearly 8-10 years to be able to yield apples. We saw some apple trees as old as 100 years. Haji sahib gave us many apples to eat. There was a stamp of freshness written all over the apple. Bidding good-bye to them, we returned.
Then we moved to main “90-foot” road. From there, we boarded a bus to SKIMS. Then we entered in Sher-e-Kashmir Institute of Medical Sciences (SKIMS) complex, it is a well renowned medical institute of J & K and clicked some photos there. Zahid told me about Sheikh Abdhulla, a great charismatic secular leader who is grandfather of Umar Abdhulla, current Chief Minister of J & K. He brought many kinds of land reforms, educational reforms and worked throughout his life to improve the condition of Kashmir. He is known as Sher-e-kashmir.
Meridian Institute of Education
From SKIIMS we moved to a School, Meridian Institute of Education. It is located in Zoonimar, Shoura near SKIMS. Near to the school is Zahid`s old house. We were warmly welcomed by the Institute`s Principal Mr. Muzamil Jan and Vice-principal Mr. Tariq Shah. It was not a very big institute. Classes were taking place in first floor only, second floor was under construction. So the capacity of the school is going to be doubled in some days. Computer lab is also to be developed. They escorted us to their office where he told us that this institute is 9 yrs old and it took lots of effort to make it this big. No govt help or any help from any trust supported us. But we all worked hard for a noble cause for rising Kashmir.
Mr. Muzamil Jan in right-side(PRINCIPAL) & Mr. Tariq Shah (Vice-Principal)
Some Historical Events of Kashmir
Mr. Muzamil Jan said “Kashmir was never a part of British India. Dogra king Gulab Singh of Jammu bought it from British Empire in 7.5 million Rupees in 1846. Britishers conquered Kashmir after beating Sikhs in 1846. Before independence, Kashmir was never a part of British India. When India and Pakistan achieved Independence from Britain Jammu & Kashmir was a princely state ruled by a Dogra ruler, Maharaja Hari Singh. Many Indian as well as Pakistani leaders offered accession to their corresponding dominion, but raja Hari singh choose to remain independent. At that time some faction of Kashmiri population showed their will to merge in Pakistan but a majority under the charismatic leadership of Sheikh Abdullah wanted to merge with India. But Kashmir remained independent. In September 1947 nearly 15-20 thousand tribal raiders with the help of Pakistani army invaded Kashmir and captured a large area of J & K. then October 1947 maharaja Hari Singh and sheikh Abdullah requested New Delhi to intervene. On 27th October 1947, raja signed the Instrument of Accession on the conditional basis. These conditions included that India will supervise its Foreign Affairs, Postal & Telecommunication Services, Use of Indian Currency and India will organize a free and fair plebiscite for the people when the situation comes under normalcy. In beginning of 1948, Pandit Nehru (who was a Kashmiri Pundit himself) brought Kashmir issue in UN. UN ordered Pakistan to withdraw its forces from J & K, and India to hold a free and fair plebiscite for the people of kashmir. But Pakistan conquered nearly 1/3rd of kashmir and refused to withdraw its forces and India refused to organize plebiscite in the remaining part of kashmir. In 1951, India allowed the formation of kashmir`s constitution and kashmir to be governed under this constitution.
At that point of time, India was sure that kashmir`s people will definitely choose to accede to India due to the sheikh abdhulla factor. Then kashmir was governed by Prime minister of kashmir. But these Govt were puppets regimes into the hands of New Delhi. On Many occasions, New Delhi overthrow the kashmir`s govt. and gradually people started loosing faith on govt. Even pandit Nehru ji put sheikh abdulla in jail balming for conspiracy of formation of independent Kashmir with the help of Pakistan. He was arrested on the charges of conspirating the formation of kashmir with the help of Pakistan. It sowed the seeds of independence in kashmiri population.
In 1984, shaheed-e-kashmir, maqbool bhat was executed in tihar jail, New Delhi. In 1987, Assembly elections were massively rigged. People accuse National Conference, a pro-india political party, of election rigging with the help of central government. And these were the point when anger & despair filled the people’s heart. Many youngsters took arms and we always supported them, we always wanted our children to go and get freedom for kashmir. After that kashmir was never same. Incalculable massacres were carried out by army. The most famous are massacre of Gawakadle, burning of lal chowk, rape of a bride which changed the centuries old kashmiri tradition. Army killed many innocent civilians who protested for freedom even peacefully. After that so many case of tortures, crack down, rapes and still getting no justice, people are full of anger against army and India.
India abolished J & K constitution in 1989.
Plight of Kashmiri People
- Army considers every kashmiri youngster as a militant and molested our women. I am not saying every army personnel is bad but there were some ill-minded who brought insults for army. My dear make one thing sure don`t mislead my words, we love Indian people by heart but we hate Indian policies. When Indians come to visit kashmir, buy our items in the day that is why we are able to eat in the night.
- Indian media is not actively interested in kashmir issue, they don`t project the true picture of kashmir in rest of India. If you people haven`t visited the kashmir you will never realize what is happening with us. That is the problem they don`t visit kashmir due to the militancy. Some visit only tourist places but they never took pain in knowing the real kashmir. Kashmiriyat teaches us many values, we serve guests like god. (At that time I was thinking that it is indeed true zahid`s family have given us so much respect and love I bet you will never get same love and affection any where in the world).Indian media highlighted the case of prince, a 3-yrs old child who fell in a dig in Kurukshetra. This news was highlighted for 3 days and even after it. But what about two kashmiri girls who were raped and murdered in cold-blood. Indian media never covered it keenly. What about when our women are molested and we get no justice. What about the suffering of kashmir valley when Jammu-Srinagar highway was jammed for 2-3 months during amaranth land controversy.
- Here elections are boycotted, at some places not a single people came to vote. At some places, mainly rural areas, people do vote but their main motto is to get money, food grains, roads etc. Army force us to vote. All the parties mainly hurriyat parties boycott elections, they ask for public boycott of elections. Main reason behind the boycott is that India refrains accepting kashmir as a disputed state and while filling the candidature we are asked to sign on a document accepting that J & K is a integral part of union of India . India never come on round table for peaceful solution of kashmir issue , we are always forced to talk under the constitution of India .
- Power generation projects in Kashmir have helped India in removing their power crisis to a great extent. But why are we charged 4 rs per unit for the very same power which is generated by our resources at a cost of re 1 per unit. This is exploitation.
- There are many cases of armed forces picking our sons and they never return, and whenever we tried to know about them we were told that they have crossed border and pursuing arms training in POK.
- India has imposed a media blackout in Kashmir. We are not allowed to run news channel in our own state. India has imposed a ban on 10-15 local channels, especially after last years shrine board issue. Newspapers are also put under a constant scrutiny.
- Kashmiri muslims are seen as fanatics and militants in many parts of India. People don`t prefer to give their rooms for rent to us. But we don`t blame them for these ordeals. But sometimes it hurts too much.
- But violence has decreased to a great extent now a days. Now tourists have started to come again in Kashmir. But still there are many agencies who are working to degrade our image and distract tourist from Kashmir to other parts of India.
- Government here is very corrupt. If you want to see the most corrupt government of India see J & K Govt.
Talking to students
First we visited U.K.G; nearly 20 students were sitting nonchalantly. Some were busy in their own dreams. Some were playing with each. Everyone except few was oblivious to our presence. They were all innocently engrossed in their chores.
By watching them, I was reminiscing about my childhood and thinking was I also this way. Suddenly I remembered about an Iranian movie named children of heaven. Indeed they all were children of heaven. Then we had a group photograph there.
A girl named, Anayat Bashir(Left pic) recited a poem, after her rest of all also sang.There was also a girl (in right pic) who was continuously trying to bring one of her boy classmate in the frame who was moving away shyly from camera. On first occasion she failed but she was desperate and in the next attempt she succeeded. Then we moved forward to 7th standard. There zahid introduced me to his cousin, Aadil. Students were studying about solar system. A girl read the chapter to every one. When enquired about ambitions, everyone but few replied doctor. Then we moved in a classroom where two class were going on simultaneously, one was 3rd and second was 5th standard. 3rd class student were studying Mathematics and 5thstandard students were studying Urdu. Then zahid introduced me one of the two teachers as her sister, she used to study with her. Her name was Dilofaz. Another teacher was in veil.
When we expressed our inability to students that we don’t know how to read & write Urdu, a girl named Aamani (in left pic) read out the story of great king Ashoka; she was a confident girl and an excellent reader. She impressed everyone with her confident and influential reading skills. Here also everyone wanted to become a doctor. When we enquired if anyone is interested in making career in sports, but no one responded. On asking if anyone likes sports, then a girl replied she likes MS Dhoni.
Then we moved to class 8th. Attendance was low only 13 out of 30 students were present. Class teacher Ms. Irfana suggested it is due to the festive time of Eid. Every student was nicely clad in their school dress. All Girls were covering their heads with Iranian headscarves. Here a very decent and studious looking boy named Muzamil, who was class topper, won our heart by dreaming to become an I.A.S. On asking why he want to become an I.A.S, he replied coz he wants to change India. Although on all occasions I tried to remain neutral but this statement of Muzamil really soothed my heart. But this happiness was very short-lived, when I enquired about his father and knowing his father is no more. My heart sank filled with sorrow. I wanted to know the reason but I was afraid of lamenting afterwards. I just prayed for his father and Muzamil that one day he can become IAS and bring change in India.While we were moving to class 6th, by now school time was over, I mistaken a girl as Aamani. But she told me that she is Farzana. Then Aamani approached me, she really wants to thank us and she was really glad that we visited their school. But I bet her that she can’t be happier than us. I promised if I ever get a chance I will definitely visit them again. I told her that she is a brilliant student and may god help her in achieving her goals. Then I approached 6th standard, but rest of all were already there. Then we enquired about sports. Girls unanimously replied they all play kho-kho. I also told them that in my school days we also used to play kho-kho with girls. But on all occasions girls won, on this they all smiled. Then boys told us about Cricket and Football. I told them everybody in India loves cricket. Then we enquired if they are provided any sports faculty. We were told “yes, a sports faculty is being provided to us here name is Shazia”. At that point of time I was surprised and thought that its nice that girls also take interest in sports. They have also been provided a cricket kit.When we asked about any past excursion trip, students replied yes they some months ago visited Gulmarg on a School Trip.Students complained us that they wish if they can have library, computer labs, science labs, and many other facilities which can enhance our personalities. I was surprised that only the girls were giving replies, not a single boy responded.
Then Lokesh enquired from teacher about education system, Ms. Sameena replied that here govt school are not good. Only a few private schools are good but they are very costly. Govt is not doing much to improve education system. There is lack of scholarships by Government. Learning kashmiri has been made mandatory. You can find everybody speaking kashmiri but many don`t know how to write and read kashmiri language and same is the case of Hindi. No body is debarred from learning Hindi. In some institutes, shorthand is also available. In Kashmir, many students drop out after 8th and 10th standards, which is due to the lack of senior secondary schools. Also many graduates are unemployed. Here we cannot prepare for AIEEE, PMT, IAS because of poor education system and also there are no private coaching centers. After 1990s, education system had collapsed, but now it is improving. Girls here mainly can pursue teaching after their studies are over. Girls are debarred from working in offices but now the situation is improving, you can find some girls have started working in offices.
Principal sir signaled us to come back as school time is over. We apologized to the students for keeping them wait even if their time was over. During all this time Gourav made a girl to write about to her. Then we thanked and wished them good luck for their future.
We all returned to office, students started going to their homes and even teachers going their homes after keeping attendance registers in principal’s office.
On asking about govt. encouragement for education, Mr. Tariq Shah, vice-principal, said “verbally they do, but practically they don’t”. Regarding present scenario of Kashmir conflict Mr. Muzamil Jan replied that India is developing day by day, now it has emerged as a decision making member of UN. UN along with other countries is bound to avert their attention from Kashmir in order to maintain cordial relations India. Wishing him good luck for his ambitions regarding the rise of education level in Kashmir, we returned.
Shab-e-Qadr Celebration
Then we moved from there to SKIIMS bust stop and purchased some fruits and boarded a bus to Ahmednagar Chowk. While we were in the bus, Fahim told me that we should not eat fruits in the to respect that fellow passengers are fasting (Roja). Then he told me one thing which I didn`t like, he told me that here if any lady is standing then she is not allowed to ask for a seat if any man is seating. Within 5 minutes we reached Ahmednagar Chowk and then to Zahid`s home. There we had lunch together. And then we planned to stay all night out to see the celebrations of Shab-e-qadar. Zahid told me that it is most auspicious night of the year. On this night, Allah enlightened Prophet Mohammed with holy Quran. So we all were quite excited about the Shab-e-qadar night celebrations. We all started resting. But Zahid and me started going to their old house. We greeted to her Maami(wife of mother`s brother). She was interacting with zahid in kashmiri, but I was able to get them they were talking from where we have come. Then we moved into a room. His cousin sister was working on Charkha doing something. She greeted us and enquired about my well-being and my experience of Kashmir. I was told she is preparing threads. From there, we took Nauman and started coming back to home. But Nauman was crying continuously. Despite of incalculable efforts, he didn’t stopped crying. After moving some distance, now Zahid came on back seat with Nauman and I started driving the scooter. But Nauman didn’t spare us. After we reached home and Nauman got into her mother’s hands and then he only kept silent. Then we rested till the evening.At that time we didn’t anticipated that this night is going to be most memorable night of our life.
Nearly at 7.00 pm we took dinner made and ourselves ready for chilling air outside. Actually our trip to Kashmir was a sudden plan and we didn’t had any warm clothes with us. Then raja gave warm clothes for all. Raja was supposed to pray in Jamia Masjid whole night. Then we all started our journey and came on main road. But after 7.00 pm , it was as expected that no buses will be available due to the Roja factor. So it took us nearly 50 minutes to reach shoura and there we were joined by some of Fahim`s friends. They were all spoiled brats. At that ti me we also met Aadil, Zahid`s cousin who was also present in school. Without power, a complete blackout was there. At this zahid told me that no one used to walk in night as we are in 1990s and even till 2000. then we all went to Fahim`s home. There we were warmly welcome by Fahim`s mother, we were served tea along with biscuits and apples (strange combination). We all enjoyed cracking jokes on each other. Discussing the boldness of girls in school, Fahim replied that here women are quite fun-loving and talkative. Most of the time they work inside houses, but they always keep the atmosphere warm with their jokes and interesting talks. After some rest, we all started our journey. Fahim`s mother(in pic) said khuda hafizwhich means god be your protector.
Cool breeze was blowing outside. Only few people can be seen on the road. It was nearly 11.00 pm and then Fahim brought some sweet dish for us which was like halwa for all. Venus and Lokesh were discussing about Lokesh`s counseling. And they were behind all. After 20 minutes of walking we reached outside Jamia Masjid. Now the real festive celebration were visible, nearly whole of the road was filled by crowd. Then we all went inside the Jamia Masjid campus from back gate. We were standing in the park are. Suddenly a rush people gathered near gate and we guessed it must be Mirwaiz. In a fraction of seconds empty entrance turned into a crowded one and I was rising on my toes to get view of Mirwaiz but even that didn`t helped me. The moment he stepped out of his car, everyone started raising slogans ”Mirwaiz zindabad” and in 10-15 seconds he was inside the Prayer Hall. And young boys dispersed. I was nearly 10 foots away but I couldn’t saw him. Then we all went inside Prayer Hall with our footwear in our hands, making way through thousands of people. Then came the much awaited moment, we were able to get first glimpse of Mirwaiz Omar Farooq in real life. Mirwaiz was seating on the chief priest throne and offering prayers. After him, all others raised their hands and repeated verses. Then we all occupied a corner. It was a really thrilling and different experience for us. Outside main hall, hundreds of women were raising their hands and offering their prayers. Then we came from the crowded corner to some open space. Then we all raised our hands and offered our prayers. Venus offered special prayers for his one wish. Normally I’m not a very religious person, but while I was seating there I was getting some vibes, I was feeling myself close to god. During all this, Zahid was away and was busy with one of the security officers. After this memorable experience, we all came out from back gate and started moving on the main road and started moving towards Makhdoom Sahib. But there was a strong urge, to get the pics of four beautiful pillars of Jamia masjid. Then we all moved inside from the Main Gate, we could see the Mirwaiz seating right in straight of us. Then we moved to the park area. There was a fountain in middle of mosque, people were washing their hands and face before moving to prayer hall. Hundreds of people gathered near fountain area and were listening to Mirwaiz. Mirwaiz`s voice was very melodious and didn`t cracked on high scale. At that time, he was thinking that his voice is quite similar to Ustad Rahet Fateh Ali Khan and he can sing nicely in Bollywood but I realized that his voice is dedicated to god. We all were seating in park and talked about this festive season celebration. Everyone, from children to old, looked cheered up. I gave camera to Fahim so that he can take some nice shots of Mirwaiz in close view. After some time we all moved out.
In front of Jamia masjid, we can see broken window panes of houses. Then Zahid told me that it is protest prone area and mainly young people from Maisuma(Gaza Strip of Kashmir) area come here and indulge in stone pelting act. We all started moving towards Makhdoom Saheb. Zahid told me tomorrow is the last Friday of the Ramdan, this empty road will be filled by people and offering Namaz. After some walking we moved to stairs of makhdoom sahib. It was nearly 3.00 am in the morning and festive environment, crowded roads, opened shops, people purchasing Food made me assume for a moment that I am in Chandani Chowk, Delhi. It was absolutely unexpected and thrilling adventure for us. We were glad to know about the real Kashmir. Man! I was surprised to see the size of parantha, it must have been atleast ten times the size of one thali. We purchased none parantha for nine of us. We started climbing stairs, hundreds of people crowded stairs but we were really excited. Nothing bothered us neither the chilly air nor crowd. Then we came at the view-point near makhdoom sahib and occupied the podium in middle of the park. Now the time was nearly 4.00 am in morning and people have started eating their shehri food. We all ate parantha and halwa , it was really delicious and we wanted more. Then we all started taking rest there, firstly Lokesh then Gourav and Venus Then Zahid and rohit all laid themselves. Fahim and his friends said they will be coming back in some minutes. We all started sleeping for some time but cold weather didn`t spared us, we all started feeling cold. And we all decided to leave. While leaving we saw Fahim and his friends returning, they wanted us to stay but by this time sleep started dominating our will. So we bid good-bye to them and started moving out. After brisk walking of 20 minutes we reached to Zahid`s sister house. There we met Raja and his sister, brother-in-law and their son. They all were eating food. At that time all were awake except Venus, he was snoring and we all laughed to see him. Raja complained us that it’s a sin to disturb someone in his slumbers.We all came in drawing room and slept for nearly half-an-hour. After that we all moved to Zahid`s house. the moment we reached, we all came and straightaway started sleeping.
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